The Violet Voice Group

Rejuvenating Old Plants

2010-09-04T17:19:00.001-06:00

Rejuvenating Old Plants By Fred C. Hill

If properly grown, an African Violet never wears out. The plant can constantly be recycled over and over again and there is no limit to its life span. Most standard sized violets should be repotted every six to nine months; miniatures and semiminiatures every three to four months. I have plants that have been in my possession for over ten years and are constantly recycled.

The first step in recycling is to remove the plant from the pot. Remove any drooping or dead leaves as well as any blossoms. Check the plant for symmetry. The plant should have leaves radiating out from the central core like the spokes on a bicycle. Also remove any leaves on the bottom rows that are smaller than the leaves above them.

Remember to scrape the core and remove any dried calluses or bumps where the leaves were removed. This will usually create a neck and make it seem like you have a violet tree. If the plant is too tall for the pot, cut off a section of the root ball and lower the plant into the pot. The plant is put into a clean pot and covered with damp mix so the bottom of the leaves are even with the rim of the pot. The rule of thumb for potting up or down is that the crown of the plant should be more than three times the size of the rim of the pot before it is potted into a larger pot. It may even have to be potted into a smaller pot if many of the leaves have been removed. When potting do not pack the mix tightly around the plant. The roots need air spaces to grow.

There may be times when it is impossible to lower the plant enough to retain some of the rootball. It may require you to remove the root ball entirely. If this drastic method is necessary, take a deep breath and cut the root ball completely off with a sharp knife. Make sure the neck has been scraped and dried calluses and remainders of leaves are removed. Put your dampened soil mix into a pot and tap the pot on the table lightly to compress it a bit. Next, make a hole with a pencil, large enough to insert the main stem of the plant.

Place the pot and plant into a clear plastic bag, inflate it and seal the bag tightly creating a miniature greenhouse for the plant. Put it in a bright but not sunny location, check it weekly to see that it has not dried out and within a few weeks roots will have developed and the plant will start growing once again. Gradually open the bag for a few days or a week to let the plant become accustomed to the room conditions and then move it to where your other plants are kept. You can follow the same procedure with a sucker you have removed from a plant.

There are many soil mix formulas. Because I wick all my plants I use a very light mix of one part potting soil or peat moss, one part coarse vermiculite and one part coarse perlite. My wicking is 4 ply acrylic worsted yarn which I scour to remove any sizing and keep it wet when I use it. I use all 4 plys for a standard plant and split it into 2 plys for my miniatures and semiminiatures. I also use squat pots for my violets because they have shallow root systems. Squat pots are also called azalea pots.

page by Alana

2010 -2011 Baby to Bloom Project

2010-09-03T06:24:00.003-06:00

"Baby to Bloom"

VV Leaf Project Fall/Winter 2010

Goals:

To share and explain different culture methods to propagate African violets and streptocarpus
To try new methods or improve our old methods and to try new varieties
To share The Growing Experience with other group members

General Schedule:

Receive leaves , Sign In, and answer Leaf Project Question #1.
Answer monthly update questions.
Race to:

First Mouse Ears
First Babies Transplanted
First Bloom On Resulting Plants

Please Note:
This project will begin approx. Sept. 20, 2010 and continue until spring 2011.
NEW MEMBERS, joining The Violet Voice after the project Sign In deadline, may join the project, but will need not receive the free leaves.
Links to these discussion threads will be added to this page as we proceed through this project.

"B & B" Leaf Project Schedule

Introduction -- Sept. 3 - 12th

Each member will receive the same varieties:

1 African violet leaf (variety may or may not be revealed -- decision later)
1 strep leaf cutting (no-name variety)

In addition to the 'group' leaves, you may start one AV leaf and 1 strep leaf of your own choosing.

You may 'sign up' to receive the leaves by posting a reply on our messageboard.

Sept. 13 - 26th

Mailing of leaves will be Monday.

When you have the leaves in your growing area:

1) Plant the leaves!
2) Add your answers to the B&B Leaf Project Question #1 on the B&B Leaf Project message board.
3) If you wish to post photos and updates of your project, begin a 'New Topic' with your name in the title.

October 2010 through April 2011

4) Near the middle of each month, we will post a new question, and ask everyone to post their answers and give us an update on their leaf/leaves progress, by adding a reply to the topic with your name,

5) Continue growing and pampering your leaf/leaves.
Continue to answer the monthly questions as they are posted.
6) We are RACING to:

First Mouse Ears
When you first see little leaves poking up from the soil, post a photo and announce the event!
First Transplants
When you first transplant babies from the mama leaf into individual pots, post a photo and tell us!
First Bloom
When one of the resulting plants first opens a blossom, post a photo and brag!

April 2011

7) We will have an informal Show and Tell. You will upload your photo/s and there will be an "Open Forum Chat" for anyone to ask questions and add comments.

8) A Project Summary Page will be permanently added to our group's informational pages.

EXTRA FUN:
Earn a FREE plant in 2011, IF you do ALL of the following:
Complete this leaf project, beginning to end
Continue to grow at least one of the plants
Enter the plant in our 20110 Virtual Violet Show, June 2011.

Limit of two FREE plants per member.

Culture Break

2010-08-25T13:14:00.002-06:00

What Fred Did To Remedy
'CULTURE BREAK'

" I have a plant of Picasso that had a break in culture over the summer and thought it might be interesting to other members. I haven't quite decided what I am going to do with it. I have two choices. One is to remove the leaves and hope the other leaves will fill in the gaps or take rows of leaves off till I get beyond the break. I am leaning toward the latter because as you can see from the photo, the old outer leaves are beginning to yellow and I don't think any amount of fertilizer of fish emulsion will bring them back. "

Fred in NJ

'Before' photo:

Below, upclose view of the row of smaller, darker leaves:

Here is the result of Fred's 'healing surgery'.
This plant is ready to 'grow to show'.

... side benefits!

Six months later,

here is the plant as it won 'Best of Show' and
Best Variegated Standard for Fred!

Leaf Propagation

2010-08-18T22:07:00.000-06:00

LEAF PROPAGATION

by Nancy Robitaille & Alana Cunningham

Choosing a Leaf for Propagation:
Always take a leaf from the second or third row of leaves when propagating African violets. Why? The center leaves are too young and immature and beyond the third row of leaves, the leaves become weak and may not produce babies. Leaves from the second row, possibly the third row are mature, vigorous, and more likely to produce healthy babies in less time.

Preparing a Leaf:

Take the leaf, cut with sharp knife at a 45 degree angle. This cut allows more of the stem to be in contact with the soil and will produce more babies.

Preparing a Leaf without a Stem:

If you receive a leaf that has the stem broken off, you can still plant it by cutting a new stem for it. Cut a "V" shape from each outside edge towards the mid rib of the leaf. Then cut down on either side of the mid rib and you will have formed a new stem. Let the cuts dry for a few minutes and then plant as usual.

Planting the Leaf:
Prepare a 2 ½ inch pot or other small container. Place good African violet soil less mix in it. Water the mix. With a pencil, make a hole then place the leaf stem in the mix. Sometimes leaves grow roots then start to grow larger themselves rather than making babies. In order to keep them from doing this you can cut the top part off the leaf. Plant the leaf at an angle. A name tag may be placed inside the pot to record information.

Or you may write any information you wish to keep on tape or directly on container. Include plant's name, hybridizer, date of planting and any other information.

Water Propagation

Many growers prefer to plant leaves in soil as they believe that roots produced in water disintegrate when they touch soil and new roots must be produced. This makes it faster to just start the leaf in the soil. However, others find this method to be the most successful for them.

Take a glass or cup of lukewarm water. Place aluminum foil over this. You may place a rubber band around it to hold it securely. Pierce holes with scissors or pencil. Insert the leaf and wait until you see babies forming before bringing it out.

You may replace water by running more into the glass and allowing the old water to flow out. When babies are seen, take the leaf out. Plant the leaf's roots in special African Violet soil-less mix, making sure that the babies are on top of the potting mix.

Soon the babies will be making roots of their own and they can be separated when their leaves are as large as your little fingernail, or you can leave them until they are big enough that you feel comfortable handling them. Make sure the center leaves of the babies are well developed before separating or the plantlet may not survive.

Photos by Nancy
Preparing new stem diagram by Alana

Page design & editing by Alana - Sep/2004

Foliage Support Rings

2010-08-18T22:04:00.002-06:00

FOLIAGE SUPPORT RINGS

Nancy Robitaille

As African violets get larger, leaves sometimes flop downward in an umbrella effect. In order to support the leaves you can find Elisa's African Violet Support Rings in 6" size for minis and semis, 9" for African violets you are training for perfection and 13" for show plants.

The rings support the lower leaves allowing them to grow flat and form better symmetry. These may be found at Cape Cod Violetry and a few other places advertised in the African Violet Magazine.

It is possible to make your own support rings right at home following these directions.

1. Buy plastic picnic plates. Measure the pot for the correct size by placing it in the middle and tracing the circle. Do not use paper plates since water spills may be absorbed and plates may lose their shapes.

2. Draw triangle shapes.

3. With a pair of scissors punch a hole in the middle and cut from the center to the beginning of round line.

4. This should be folded down slightly.

5. Bend triangular arrows back and force pot through.

6. Reinforce the foliage holders by taping points to the pot.
7. Write the name of the plant on the edge of the plastic plate.

Page design & editing by Alana - Sep/2004

Sowing Seed

2010-08-18T22:04:00.001-06:00

SOWING SEED

Nancy Robitaille

Shantel's Seedlings

African violet and other gesneriad seeds are very tiny, almost dust-like. Sowing seed does not present a problem but some preparation should be done.

1. Consider using a black or dark green 3 inch pot. The dark color keeps algae from growing since algae will make your germinated seed disintegrate.

2. Your usual African violet soil-less mix is adequate or you may use vermiculite. Moisten this with water that has an added drop of NO DAMP or similar product which keeps the seedlings from dying before they are green enough to grow on their own. Some people use a dilute mixture of chamomile tea to prevent damping off disease. This is a fungal disease which attacks seedlings at the soil level causing the plant to collapse.

3. Sprinkle a bit of soil-less mix that has gone through a sifter directly on top of the regular mix so small seeds will not fall through the cracks and crevices made by big pieces of perlite and vermiculite. Spray this with water solution before sowing seeds. Label the container.

4. Open the packet of seed on a piece of white paper that has a crease down the middle. Do not use all the seed at once. Scatter a few seeds on the mixture and give warmth from below. Do not add soil on top. Seeds don't actually need light until they have germinated. Average time for germination may be 2 weeks to 27 days but can be longer. Window light is good but you should provide protection against cold drafts and strong sun. Add a plastic bag or other cover.

5. Streptocarpus seedlings show one leaf at a time. Transplant strep seedlings when the leaf is about ½ inch long. Strep seedlings grow well in 100% humidity.

Page design & editing by Alana - Sep/2004

Manage Your Collection

2010-08-18T14:19:00.002-06:00

Keeping Your Collection Manageable
by Alana

How Many Av's Are Too Many?

One mistake, many of those new to collecting african violets make, is to add too many plants or leaves to their collection before they have enough knowledge to handle a large amount of violets. It is certainly hard to resist the temptation to have as many as you can get when you first discover the vast variety of named african violets.

However, you can quickly find yourself overwhelmed with having to care for them all and your collection as a whole will suffer. Most collectors are generous souls and the newbie can be the recipient of many packages of african violet leaves for only the cost of postage. Here are a few points to keep in mind to make sure your new hobby is "fun" and not a "chore"!

1. Decide how much room you have for your plant hobby. Calculate the space required for each full grown plant. If space is limited you may want to collect semiminiatures or miniatures although some feel these are harder to grow for new ones. Yes, do the math -- you really don't have the space to "grow them all"! It is better to grow a few plants successfully then many plants which are suffering from lack of care.

2. Don't order a bunch of leaves from a vendor before you have mastered the art of propagating from leaves -- practice on your No-Names, it costs less to lose them. Do not try and save all the babies you get from each leaf or you will soon be overrun. If you have an order of 20 leaves and keep 4 babies from each leaf, you will need to have space for 80 full grown plants. At first you may be tempted to save all the plantlets because you are afraid of losing some, but as your confidence grows you should be able to cull plantlets and some will have to end up in the compost.

3. Culling is also important in deciding which plants really appeal to you. If you are not impressed with a variety of african violet then compost it or find it a new home. You will then have room to devote to the varieties you really like.

4. It is important to educate yourself on the symptoms of disease and pest infestations. Is that white stuff in the pot perlite or mealybugs? Make sure to isolate any new plants to your collection so they don't spread whatever they bring with them. If you can't identify a pest or disease problem early on it can wipe out your entire collection.

5. Not all varieties will grow for you and look like the one in the photo you saw that you just "had to have". If you are not having success with that coveted variety, it is best to move on and spend your time on the varieties that appreciate the growing conditions you are providing.

6. Each year the vendors come out with photos of beautiful new varieties in their catalogues. If you want to try a few new varieties each year, then determine how many you have space for and if you will need to cull your collection to make space for them.

7. To grow out your violets to their full potential, you will need to give them the correct light, fertilizer and amount of water that they require. They also need to be cleaned and groomed of extraneous or damaged leaves to develop beautiful foliage. Suckers must be removed, too, or they will distort the plant. You need to be constantly checking for anything attacking your collection, as well, so you can treat it as needed. Then there is the need for repotting every 6 months for the Standards and every 3 months for the Semis and Minis. Also, if you are propagating from leaves, there will be many babies to be potted up. Leaching is needed regulary to remove excess fertilizer salts and chemicals which can alter soil PH and damage plants. This involves running tepid water through the top of the soil until the water that runs out is clear.

8. You will need to decide how many plants you can happily give the care required in step 7 above. If you find you are not enjoying the work involved in keeping your plants looking beautiful, then you have too many!

9. My advice for newbies is to limit your collection to no more than a couple of dozen until you are experienced in all aspects of african violet care. You will then be in a better position to know how many plants you can keep without being overwhelmed. Then you can really enjoy this hobby!

Neglected Violets!!!

printable pdf file

Gloxinia Culture

2010-08-18T14:18:00.002-06:00

THE CULTURE OF THE FLORIST'S GLOXINIA
(SINNINGIA SPECIOSA HYBRID)

by Nancy Robitaille

How many times have you seen a florist's gloxinia (sinningia) in a show?

Rarely, probably. They are large, impressive plants with spectacular blooms that will take your breath away yet few people who collect African violets grow these plants.

THEIR BEGINNINGS:

The discovery of the Gloxinia was recorded in 1785 and named in honor of P.B. Gloxin from Strassburg, Germany. Probably due to its size the plant has not appreciated immense popularity neither at that time nor in our own. This plant was introduced into England and was named Gloxinia speciosa.

Originally the plant was discovered in Brazil and the first was called G. perennis, later called Gloxinia speciosa. The species plant did not greatly resemble the hybrids we see today in florist's shops or nursery shelves. The species plant has flowers which are slipper-shaped and nod or face the leaves. Todays larger varieties look up so you can see down into their throats.

By 1825, botanists discovered that this plant had been misnamed. It was not a Gloxinia but actually a gesneriad that belonged to the genus Sinningia. In spite of this the plant is still popularly called "Gloxinia" or "Florist's Gloxinia."

The true gloxinia is Gloxinia perennis which is grown from a knotty rootstock and is similar in construction to Achimenes. G. perennis has bell-shaped flowers, the common name is "Canterbury Bells". The true gloxinia does not produce tubers.

CULTURE OF GLOXINIAS:

You may start your gloxinia collection by purchasing a tuber or the entire plant.

Tubers of most hybrids are dark brown, rounded on one side and concave on the other.

January or February are good months to start tubers. February plantings of a tuber will assure you of a large head of bloom by late May or early June. Planning for shows is not easy. Tubers may be started at any time, however.

For show plants, only one of the plantlets that develop should be allowed to continue to grow. Other growths may be taken off and planted. Plants should be placed in the center of the fluorescent bulb so that symmetry can be at its best.

SOIL FOR GLOXINIAS:

Soil mix was recommended in my research but I will not repeat these recipes since they are outdated. Growers of today use the same soil-less mix that we use for African violets.

A medium sized tuber should be potted in a four or a five inch pot. If the tuber is really large, try a six or even a seven inch pot. Fill the pot with soil until it is three-quarters full. Press the tuber into this and twist slightly. Add more soil until the tuber is covered by three-quarters. Set the pot in warm water and allow the soil to moisten.

Tubers can be started at any time but grow more slowly in winter.

LIGHT:

Gloxinias need lots of light. in order to become symmetrical. Turn pots frequently. Plants grown in light gardens do very little resting. When the bloom period is over, they may be cut back to the lowest two leaves and kept in active growth. New leaves will appear in a few days and the plant is on its way to performing again.

Flowers will stay crisp and attractive for about ten days to two weeks. They may last longer if a slightly shadier spot is found when flowering starts. A well-developed plant will have four to seven blossoms through most of a three month's season. Slipper-type flowers are more free flowering and may have twelve to fifteen or more blossoms open at the same time.

TEMPERATURE AND VENTILATION:

Gloxinias are tropical flowers from steamy jungles of Brazil so they will enjoy lots of humidity. Temperatures should range from 72 to 78 degrees F. with cooler temperatures at night of five to ten degrees.

WATERING:

Watering your plants properly insures success more than any other single factor. Tubers have a large accumulation of moisture and this allows for less watering than for African violets. Water from the top or from the bottom but try not to water directly on top of the tuber. Use warm water. Water less during the winter months.

Warm water will not harm leaves. In fact some growers take their plants to the kitchen sink every week or so for a shower with warm water. Keep wet plants away from direct sunlight.

SUMMERING GLOXINIAS:

You may safely summer your gloxinias outdoors. The pots may be plunged into the ground under a bushy shrub or other overhanging plant growth. When the plants bloom, bring them indoors to enjoy. Be very careful about insects from outdoors including those that might crawl into the bottom holes or flying insects.

When an older plant seems limp and leaves turn brown cut off all the green growth and keep soil on the dry side. Growth will resume within about a month's time.

FERTILIZER:

This issue has been debatable since, as with tulip bulbs, amaryllis, and similar tuber or bulb plants, the fertilizer is in the bulb or tuber. Some growers use small amounts of fertilizers each two weeks. Others use no extra fertilizers. Note that the growers who use no fertilizer do use products in their soil mix such as bone meal.

Today's growers use the same fertilizers and amounts as with their African violets. Fertilizers such as 20-20-20 or 15-30-15 are recommended, ¼ teaspoon to a gallon of water used at each watering is now recommended.

PROPAGATION:

Healthy tubers may be used for propagation. Smaller leaves put into a glass of water or amount of soil soon produce small tubers.

The large tuber can also increase your collection by splitting it and planting sections. Gloxinias may be compared to potatoes which are often dotted with "eyes". Each eye may be severed with part of the tuber attached. This "eye" is capable of producing a new plant.

If you are uncertain about the "eyes" of a tuber wait until they start sprouting. This green growth may be dissected from the tuber so each section contains a sprout. Each may be dusted with sulfur or Fermate and potted up. Tubers may be stored in the pots they have been growing in.

When a resting tuber begins to sprout, take out about an inch of the soil on top and replace with fresh soil. When the pot seems crowded, take out the tuber and place into a larger pot. Some tubers take up to three months to rest while others do not rest at all. Resting tubers may also be stored in a bag or container. They do need a bit of air to keep them from molding.

Leaves may be torn from the plant leaving a heel then rooted in water or soil. Smaller, younger leaves perform better than older leaves. Roots appear in about ten days. As the end of the stem begins to broaden, it is time to plant the leaf if you have placed it in water. From six weeks to two months "mouse ears" may be seen.

Leaves can also be used in propagation like those of Rex begonia. This procedure is to sever the veins of a leaf, place the leaf face up on soil-less medium and cover the end of the stem with the medium. The leaf should be weighted down with pebbles. Provide humidity with a plastic sack. Provide some ventilation.

The leaf stem may also be split in two then planted in soil or water.

Gloxinias may be propagated with seeds. Gloxinia seeds are tiny (800,000 per ounce). Plants produced from seed usually do not have the strength to grow the next year because the newly formed corms are too small to thrive.

PESTS AND DISEASES:

Gloxinias are less susceptible to pests than many other plants. However, they may still be affected by most pests in the African violet army. Aphids, cyclamen mites, mealy bugs, springtails, static buds, and thrips may be found when growing these plants.

Gloxinias may be affected with bud blast, chlorosis, flower malformation, leaf curl, tuber rot, and wilt.

GLOXINIA HYBRIDS:

Buell nurseries seems to have hybridized most of the named gloxinia hybrids. Since their greenhouses are no longer open to the public, the grower must search in local greenhouses for unnamed varieties. The hybridizers of this beautiful plant have not recorded much information about their hybrids. Many have not even been formally named. Following are some named hybrids you may be able to find.

EMPEROR FREDERICK—Heavy scarlet with pearly margins.
EMPEROR WILLIAM—Deep pansy-purple with heavy white margin.
ETOILE DE FEU (STAR OF FIRE)—Sparkling cardinal-red flowers.
GLOXINIA CRASSIFOLIA—M. Rossiad, hybridizer 1870. Plants have rounded, velvety, thick leaves with plump short buds, large solid flowers, very wide at the mouth but with a narrow tube. Colors range through the blues and shade into rose.
MONT BLANC—Bright, snowy white, with little or no ruffling.
MONTERAY ROSE—deep glowing pink.
PANZER BEAUTY—Solid red flowers with wavy margins. This is an excellent bloomer and the parent of many new hybrids.
QUEEN WILHELMINA—A lovely and unusual combination of dainty pink with an irridescent violet sheen.
SWITZERLAND—Shining scarlet-cerise with a white ruffled edge, throat well flared.
WATERLOO—an international favorite, flowers are bright scarlet with margins deeply ruffled.
BLUE CHIPS—deep blue double flowers on a compact plant.
JACK O' DIAMONDS—double scarlet with white edging.
QUEEN OF HEARTS—large double rose-pink.
SINCERELY—a named hybrid by Peggie Schulz, rose-red slipper with white edge.
WHITE KNIGHT—pure white.

The Albert Buell hybrids include an entire strain of extra large gloxinias most with ruffled petals. The color range is wide including soft pinks, honey-blends, frosty orchids, near-blues and heavy whites.

It is unlikely that you have ever seen a gloxinia (sinningia) in a club show. Maybe yours should be the first!

Fungus Gnats

2010-08-18T14:15:00.002-06:00

THOSE DREADFUL FUNGUS GNATS

Nancy Robitaille

photo - Happy D Ranch

Of all the insects that infest our African violets, the most common is the fungus gnat. Bothersome, annoying, embarrassing when guests visit, these creatures may be obnoxious but they are not too destructive to our plants.

Some say they do not bother the plant, they feed on fungus in the soil. But through research it has been discovered that Yes, they do damage plants—food crops outdoors can be devastated by them. But, generally speaking, they are not too harmful to our African violets.

If there is no fungus matter available for them to eat, gnats will attack weaker and younger plants. Leaf cuttings, baby plants and immature plantlets are vulnerable.

These "insignificant" pests are only a nuisance if their numbers build and a hardy infestation takes over. If more than once you have seen a fungus gnat flying even with those yellow sticky cards set up among your plants, you have an infestation that should be taken care of.

These small flies include 600 species found in North America. Thank heaven most are not interested in our violets. Dr. Charles Cole, author of INSECT AND MITE PESTS OF AFRICAN VIOLETS, says: "Only a few species will actually feed on and damage live plant tissue."

Fungus gnats (orfelia spp.) lay eggs in the soil. With each female laying between 100-300 eggs and when those eggs hatch in four to six days, depending on the temperature of the room, it is easy to see how they could multiply into a serious infestation.

What Do These Tiny Annoying Insects Look Like and How Can You Tell Them Apart from Thrips?

Thrips are tiny insects shaped like a bomb. They are in the range of 0.5-5 mm long. Color may be yellow, tan, brown or black. Thrips have four narrow wings fringed with long hairs. They feed on decayed plant material or fungi or in the case of other species, they feed on other insects such as mites, plant-feeding thrips and other small insects. Some thrips species feed on pollen, flowers or plant foliage. Besides the color difference between Thrips and gnats, their feeding habits are remarkable.

Gnats may be one-eighth to one-half inches in length, mosquito-like with long legs and antennae. Two wings of a grayish color are delicate and a clear color with a Y- shaped vein in the wing pattern. Fungus gnats may be gray, black, some are marked with yellow or white.

As larvae, the insects are tiny, translucent-to-white in color with distinctive shiny black head capsule. They have no legs and are small and thin, thread-like. They may be up to one quarter inch (5.5mm). Larvae are most damaging to seedlings, cutting and young plants. When larvae feed on tender young roots this provides an entry for pathogens.

Where there is an abundance of moist organic matter adults will breed. They feed on plant exudations and nectar, while the baby larvae feed on fungi and decaying organic matter.

Many fungus gnats are found outdoors and in nurseries where it is warm and moist. They may attracted to light and may be seen near widows.

What damage can fungus gnats do?

Damage is not visible; that is, damage to the foliage and flowers is negligible but what about the tiny delicate, often weak root systems of cuttings and baby plants? Roots may become small and show brownish scars from larval feeding. Especially delectable are the young feeder roots or root hairs that will become demolished in time. Plants may show signs of sudden wilting, loss of vigor, poor growth, yellowing and foliage loss because of the stress of root damage.

Fungus gnats may find their way into your plant room through air currents or other means such as on pet fur or even on your own hair or clothing. Other means of entry might be newly acquired plants.

The life cycle egg to adult is 3- 4 weeks depending upon the temperature of the room. Larvae are laid in cracks and crevices of the soil and will mature in four to six days.

Mixes that use coconut coir were at first thought to discourage gnats but experiments have proven the contrary; it seems to attract gnats.

How to Control Fungus Gnats:

Poor drainage and over watering may contribute to making the conditions which fungus gnat love. Correction of this may reduce some of the problems.

When chemical control is necessary you may decide to try the following suggestions:

"Black flies that flit around the plants are fungus gnats that breed in the rich organic planter mix. If manure is used in the planter mix these pests are sure to be troublesome." says the book, AFRICAN VIOLETS , published by Countryside Books.

The book goes on to say that although these tiny insects don't really do much damage you may wish to control heavy infestations by drenching the soil mix with Sevin or Chlordane solution.

An article written by Michael J. Kartuz from HANDBOOK ON AFRICAN VIOLETS AND THEIR RELATIVES (Brooklyn Botanic Garden) gives only slight mention on the subject of Fungus gnats. He offers a cure with Chlordane or Cygon 2E (dimethoate ) or use Aldrin 5 percent granular.

Tony Clements in AFRICAN VIOLETS says to remove the top three-quarter inch of soil and replace it with fresh soil then allow the plant to dry out before watering again.

Note that larvae may also be found at the bottom of the container.

Helen Van Pelt Wilson says in her book, AFRICAN VIOLET BOOK p. 213 that the larvae stage attacks root hairs. She recommends Fumi-Soil Capsules or Science Granular Systemic. She mentions to spray the plant with Raid House and Garden Bug Killer or use Terraclor or P-40.

Pauline Bartholomew in her book GROWING TO SHOW, says to use No Pest Strips. She says to tap on the pot to call them out then zap them with a pesticide spray. "If this is done each day for ten days or so the population will be greatly reduced if not eliminated entirely".

Montague Free has this to say in his book ALL ABOUT AFRICAN VIOLETS. "For a home remedy, take plant, pot and saucer to kitchen sink, water thoroughly with a fine spray of lukewarm water, and when the springtails swarm in the saucer, wash them down the drain. …Another is to put a teaspoonful of naphthalene flakes in the center of the saucer, rest the pot on it, and then fill the saucer with water; but it seems to me that this might be disastrous to plants in some cases. Other prescriptions include these three: watering with one teaspoon Chlorox to one pint of warm water; with one teaspoon ammonia to one quart of water; or with one teaspoon Lysol to one quart of water…"

He continues, "Black flies are said to succumb to most of the above measures. In addition, any of the insecticides containing DDT for garden purposes should be effective is sprayed on pots and soil (Note: This information is taken from a book printed in 1949. DDT for use indoors or out is NOT recommended.)

Other Ways to Rid Ourselves of These Pests:

The most practical solution is recommended by Pauline Bartholomew. She recommends using No-Pest strips manufactured by several companies. These yellow (or blue) cards are manufactured with a sticky substance which makes flying insects stick. These are most effective when placed just above the soil level.

Some growers have used yellow cards or tennis balls coated with Vaseline for the same purpose. One recommended using the product Tanglefoot on yellow cards since it lasts much longer than the Vaseline.

An internet article written by University of Connecticut staff has this to say about fungus gnats. The article is entitled INTEGRATED PEST MANAGEMENT.

"A bacteria called Bacilleis thuringensis var. israelensis, sold under the name of Gnatrol, is most effective against the young larvae when they are actively feeding. The bacteria must be ingested by the larva, after which a toxic protein crystal is released into the insects' gut. The larva stops feeding and dies. Gnatrol is only toxic to larvae for two days. Repeat applications…

"Steinermema filtiae is an insect killing nematode that can be also applied as a drench treatment"

Another predatory mite mentioned is Hypoasper miles, that feeds on fungus gnat larvae.

"Knox Out and DuraGuard ME are two microencapsulated products that may be used for both larvae and adults." Other recommendations are: Talstar, AtainTR, Decathlon 20 WP, Astro, Orthene TR, Pyrethrum and insecticidal soap which are labled for fungus gnat adults.

The University of Connecticut article continues by suggesting this: "Potato plugs, one inch diameter, one-half inch thick placed on soil surface to monitor for larvae"… may be used. "To use potato plug place it so there is contact with the soil so the plug does not dry out. First check soil under the plug then the surface of the potato. It may take one to three days before seeing larvae. Replace plugs weekly. Remember to remove the potato plugs."

FUNGUS GNAT DEVELOPMENT AT 72 DEGREES FARENHEIT

Development Stage

Egg --- 4 to 6 days
Larva --- 10 to 14 days
Pupa --- 4 to 6 days
Adult --- 8 to 10 days
Egg Laying Period --- 7 days
Egg to Adult --- 30 days

Total number of eggs laid = 100 to 150

Chimeras

2010-08-18T08:54:00.002-06:00

CHIMERAS

A Pinwheel By Any Other Name

Nancy Robitaille

Fenna - photo by Hiroko Endo

African violet hobbyists are nuts! I have no qualms about making that statement since I'm one myself. We fall head-over-heels in love with a common everyday plant grown by the hundreds in cool, damp basements by the light of glaring fluorescent tubes. We always want the latest and greatest from among the hundreds of new releases of hybrid African violets produced each year and are willing to play through the nose for them. If you don't believe me, check out the prices of some of the plants on Ebay!

It seems now that a plant that dates back only a few years, even if it performs beautifully, is passé. Only new plants and novelties catch our eye. Today there are plenty of "different" violets: the yellow-blooming plants, the spotted and streaked and of course the chimera.

What's In A Name?

Originally the term "chimera" was reserved for a strange beast found in Greek mythology that sported the head of a lion, the body of a goat, and tail of a dragon. Such a creature definitely had distinct types of genetic tissue of the same animal, just like a pinwheel violet, so was probably a true chimera. Even the ancients had serious doubts about whether such a creature ever existed, so the word "chimera" came to mean "an absurb creation of the imagination." Given the characteristics of the pinwheel flower, extending the word chimera to African violets therefore was only logical.

It hasn't been that long since the word "chimera" was introduced to African growers, via magazines and other written publications. Most people saw the word without having ever heard it spoken, so it is not surprising that mispronounciations abound.

According to the dictionary "Chimera" is pronounced "Ki-me-ra" or "Ka-mir-a" with a hard C, not "She-mer-a" or "Che-mer-a."

Candy Cane Flowers

Why all the interest in chimeras? To those of us who are not hybridizers, the chimera is just another pretty flower with a stripe down each lobe. Many growers simply use the terms "pinwheel" or "striped" flower.

To hybridizers and botanists, a chimera is a very special plant made up of two entirely different plants in one. The biological definition of a chimera is "a mixture of tissues of different genetic constitution in the same part of an organism." In other words, the basic flower color stems from one type of tissue, the central stripe from another. Think of a chimera plant as being a candy cane. The chimera flower is two totally different plants twisted and melted together to make one, yet each retains its distinctive color.

A cross section of a chimera leaf or stem would show it is made up of two different genetic cells; one for the main color of the bloom, the other for the color of the stripe of each bloom. As the flower lobe develops, most of it grows from a certain tissue layer, while the second color grows from a different layer. This produces a striped or pinwheel effect.

How Did Chimeras Come About?

Perhaps someday it will be possible to take a cell from a pink African violet, merge it with the cell of a blue flowered plant and get the two to grow as one plant, producing a chimera. At the present time it is not possible to create new chimeras in the laboratory. The first chimeras resulted from partial mutations. Some of the cells remained true to the mother plant, while other cells within the same stem became quite different. In true or periclinal chimeras, the mutated cells are on the outer side of the leaf tissue, while the inner core is exactly like the mother plant. The result of such partial mutations is a chimera.

Chimeras actually occur quite frequently in African violets and in many other plants. When part of a plant suddenly begins to produce variegated leaves or different colored flowers, a chimera may be involved, especially when this section continues to grow in the same way over time, sometimes spreading slightly to adjacent parts of the plant, sometimes losing ground. Unfortunately, in most cases, these chimeral tissues lie adjacent to the normal ones, not surrounding them, and it is unlikely that a stable, reproducible pattern will be produced from them.

Pinwheel violets, with two colors or shades distinctly marked on the same flower, have been know almost since the first African violet was grown in culture, one hundred years ago. They emerged as occasional mutations and were rarely given a second thought, since no one knew how to propagate them. For many years the African Violet Society of America would not allow chimera violets to be registered, maintaining that if they could not be reproduced true from leaf cuttings, they were not stable enough to be considered viable cultivars. Today it is now recognized that "reproducing true" can also be accomplished by means other than leaf cuttings, and chimera violets have risen to the pinnacle of popularity in the African violet world. The extra care needed in producing chimeras as opposed to regular violets results in a higher price tag. Even the least expensive baby plants in first bloom can cost $5 or more and new releases range in the $20-plus bracket.

Emerald City -- Photo by Nancy Robitaille

Breeding Chimeras

How does one go about creating chimeras? After all, there are probably over 100 different chimera African violets available on the market, some on standard violets, and others on miniatures, semi miniatures or trailers, some with double flowers, others with single blossoms. Where do they all come from?

Most are simply accidental mutations. They "just growed," as Topsy would have said. Serious African violet enthusiasts know the value of chimeras and watch for them. With literally millions of people growing African violets all over the world every year, the chances for mutations are good.

Hybridizers have also learned certain African violet strains have a tendency to sport (mutate) to chimeras. They cross these strains with cultivars offering other interesting characteristics…and keep their fingers crossed. Although their techniques lead to some success, developing new and better chimeras remains more a stroke of luck than a sure thing. At present chimeras are rare and more valued than other violets, so don't count on these prices coming down.

The Father of Chimeras

In the mid-1970s Hugh Eyerdom of Granger Gardens in Medina, Ohio, hybridized two chimera varieties that were extremely superior to any chimeras previously developed. These two varieties, "Valencia" and "Desert Dawn," were then introduced as new chimera varieties and sold for $50 each. The introduction of the chimeras was met with great interest, and the demand was heavy for them, even at $50.

The success of the chimera introduction led to many other hybridizers' development of more chimeras. Although the $50 price tag is no longer asked, new varieties still command a $10 to $20 when first introduced, while older chimeras generally sell for $5 to $10 each.

Chimeras have appeared occasionally either from seedlings or mutations for many years; however, they were never marketed due to propagation difficulties. As the cells carrying the chimera genes are only present in the epidermal tissue of the plant, they will not propagate true from leaf cuttings, since the new plant tissue usually grows from the internal tissue that is exposed when the leaf stem is cut. As a result, the plants had to be de-crowned, forcing them to sucker—to make new crowns. As the suckers grow from the joint of the leaf stem and the crown (not where the crown is cut) the suckers pick up the surface cells and the chimera genes.

Compared to leaf cuttings, crown removal and the appearance of suckers is very slow and not very prolific. As a result, it was too expensive to try to sell them as a regularly priced violet.

Propagating Chimeras

Chimera violets are so different from other African violets they require specialized care in propagation.

Cuttings and Tissue Culture Won't Work

Chimeras cannot be propagated by leaf cuttings because they are composed of two genetically different layers of tissue, whereas, in African violets, each plantlet produced from a leaf comes from a single cell. The flower color of the new plant grown from a chimera leaf will depend on whether it was produced from a cell from the outer section of the leaf or a cell from the inner core. The outcome is a plant whose flowers are either the color of the basic flower or the color of the stripe, never both.

Tissue culture, in which a paper-thin slice of a leaf is grown in a test tube resulting in many thousands of plantlets in a few months, has likewise failed as a means of reproducing chimeras, and for the same reasons. Each plant is grown from a single cell and doesn't carry the peppermint stripe combination typical of chimeras. Some laboratories do reproduce selected clones of pinwheel violets by tissue culture. It is believed that these pinwheel violets are not chimeras, even though the genetic make-up of each of their cells allows for two flower colors to be expressed at once.

If leaf cuttings do not work and tissue culture is a dud, how are chimera violets propagated? By using plant parts that DO maintain the "outer shell/inner core" pattern of the chimera.

Off With Their Heads
The solution to multiplying chimera violets is simple. Chop the top off the plant and root it. However, this wouldn't seem to give you much, since the result would be only one plant: the rooted top. Although the stub of the original plant may not look like much, it is alive and contains a full supply of roots to support its growth. It will quickly form a number of new stems, with most of these producing chimeras, which may be rooted in turn. Most African Violet growers rely on other means of propagating their favorite chimeras.
Suckering Up A Storm
Sucker: the word makes African Violet growers cringe. It refers to the plantlets that occassionally appear on the stem or among the leaves of violet plants. As the suckers grow, they push the original plant's leaves aside, disrupting symmetry and sapping all its energy, causing flowering to slow down or stop all together. Is it any wonder that African Violet lovers pluck them out as soon as they see them?
On the other hand, growers of chimeras look for suckers with anticipation. Most suckers contain the proper balance of plant tissues to produce the chimera violet. Suckers are the earliest method of propagation.
It is fairly simple to remove a chimera sucker. Simply insert a pencil behind the sucker, dig it into the tissue on the main stem of the mother plant, and flick it forward. With luck, the sucker will go flying. Dentist's picks and nut picks, not to mention dedicated "sucker-pluckers" (available from African Violet specialists) are also tools of choice.
Suckers can be rooted by setting them on damp vermiculite or some other growing medium. Use hairpins to hold down the two outer leaves so the sucker will root in the right position. Some growers place the sucker on a bed of moist paper towels, setting it in a terrarium or in a clear plastic container until the sucker forms roots.
On standard African Violets, growers generally remove suckers as soon as they are spotted, but in the case of chimera, suckers are a welcome addition -- the more frequently, the better!
As mentioned, the most drastic method is to cut off the head of the plant. Take a row of leaves with your "cutting" and leave one or two rows of leaves with the root ball. Reroot the center to make another plant and cover the stub with a plastic sack. (I tried this once with the popular chimera "Granger's Desert Dawn" and ended up with over twenty plantlets, all true to type, and the original stub still producing.)
The Japanese have found acupuncture works in sucker production. Take an average sewing needle (true acupuncture needles are optional), pierce the chimera in one place, and twist the needle between thumb and forefinger to open the hole a little. A sucker will appear within months.
Do It With Flowers
Believe it or not, you can actually root flower stalks as a means of producing chimeras. It's not easy, but it is possible.
The idea is quite simple. In violets, most flower stalks bear tiny pairs of leaves, and at the axil of each of these leaves lays a dormant bud. Normally, it simply withers away as the flowers fade, but if you root the stalk separately, the bud will generally struggle back to life. Since the plantlets it produces comes from a complete bud, and not just from a single cell, the chances are good they will maintain chimera characteristics.
Start by removing a flower stalk, which has two small leaves. Cut off the flower and flower buds leaving only about one-eighth inch (3 mm) of stem above the leaves. Then, cut the rest of the stem so it is about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length. Place it carefully in moist vermiculite or another growing medium. Set a plastic bag over the container, putting it under lights. When plantlets appear (this may take a few months), remove the plastic sack. When they have grown to about the size of a five cent piece, separate the plantlets and grow as usual.
For better success in propagating chimeras by this method, leave the flower stalk (peduncle) on the mother plant for a longer time and cut off all flowers or buds as they appear. This allows the leaves on the flower stalk to grow to a larger size than usual and, in this way, will have more area to photosynthesize, giving them a head start when you do root them.
When you grow your own chimeras, never distribute them until they have bloomed at least once, discarding those that don't bloom true. Likewise, when you buy a chimera, make sure you choose one in flower that reveals the true pinwheel stripe.
See chimera propagation and Janet's Keiki grow method

Starting Plants

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By FredCHill

     There are numerous ways of starting plants - seeds, leaf cuttings, bloomstalks and suckers. Most hybrid plants will bloom true from leaf cuttings, except for chimeras which will only bloom true from suckers.
     Seeds are obtained if a pistil on a plant is fertilized with pollen from the anther of a plant, whether it be the same plant or a different one. The ovary of the plant swells and when it dries it produces a seed pod with hundreds of seeds. These can be planted and raised to blooming size and the grower will find numerous different plants.
     Suckers can be removed from the main plant and potted up to obtain plants of the same type. Probably the most widely used form of propagation is a leaf cutting. Intermediate mature leaves produce the best plantlets. Rooting powder is not necessary and in fact inhibits the production on new plantlets by only producing many roots, plantlets will take longer to appear.

     The first step in propagating a leaf is to cut the end of the petiole (stem) diagonally with a sharp knife or razor. Leave about 1" to 1 1/2 " of the petiole. Since plantlets develop from the cut end, you will find you get more from a diagonal cut and if the petiole is too long it will take longer for the plantlets to appear. If the petiole is broken, you can cut a "V" shape to create a new petiole.
     Use a small plastic pot or bathroom cup. Write the name of the plant on the pot with a marker or on a plastic plant stake. Fill the pot with dampened mix. I use my 1-1-1 soil mix which is extremely light. Others use a mix of 50/50 coarse perlite and coarse vermiculite. Make a hole in the mix with a pencil or similar tool. Place the petiole in the hole up to the base of the leaf. Firm the mix around the stem and place the entire pot inside a clear plastic bag. Some leaves are too large so it is permissible to cut part of the top of the leaf off. This also stops the growth of the leaf and permits all the energy to go into growing plantlets. Inflate and seal the bag and put it into a bright but not sunny location. Check it weekly to see it has not dried out. In four to six weeks you should see small plantlets coming up from the mix.
     When the plantlets get to be about 2 - 3 inches in height, open the plastic bag and let the small plantlets begin to harden off. Plantlets may then be removed and potted up separately.
     As I said there are many ways of propagating. Many growers years ago used the water method of starting plants from leaves. A glass was filled with water and covered with a piece of foil or waxed paper. A slit was made in the top and the leaf inserted into the water. This was put into a bright area and eventually roots and small plantlets developed. From here growers would transfer them into soil mix. It is now thought that those water roots die off and soil roots have to develop before the plant can grow, which starts the rooting process from scratch.

Bloomstalk Propagation

2010-08-18T08:20:00.006-06:00

Bloom Stalk Propagation

by Nancy Robitaille & Alana

This is Chimo, a chimera hybridized by Greta Durand. The pinwheel striped flowers of the chimera cannot be duplicated by propagating from a leaf. In order to get chimera babies there are 3 methods which you can choose from.

Wait for the plant to sucker and then remove the suckers and root them in their own pots - this may take a long time if the plant does not like to produce suckers.
Chop off the top of the plant and wait for suckers to be produced -- of course you may not have the heart to ruin your beautiful chimera even if you will have replacements from the suckers.
Pot up fresh mature bloomstalks which will have a high success rate at producing chimera duplicates.

Chimo is a good candidate for this last method as the bloom stalk or flower stalk produces large leaves (bracts). If the leaves on a bloom stalk are not large, you can remove the flower and buds but leave it on the plant a little longer until the leaves grow larger. If the leaves are very small or the bloom stalk is pale, the chance of success is low. Simply cut the stalk to about 3/4 inch to 1 inch and insert into soil, after removing flowers and buds. Some people use a small amount of rooting hormone on the bottom of the stalk, but it is not necessary.

Insert the bloom stalk (peduncle) cutting in the soil up to the junction of the two leaf stalks (pedicels). Place in a covered container for added humidity.

For those of you who have greater success rooting in water, it is possible to root bloom stalks in water as well. One way is to float a piece of styrofoam on the water that has a hole cut big enough to fit the bottom of the bloom stalk through. You might like to try this as an experiment to see how it works for you.

Now we see a plantlet of Chimo has developed between the bloom stalk leaves. It may take 1 to 3 months to see the new plant forming so be patient.

This method of propagation is also useful for reproducing fantasies as they will have a high rate of blooming true. Some fantasy varieties do not have a high success rate of blooming true to the parent when propagated by the leaf method.

So, don't discard those chimera bloom stalks, they can give you a reliable source of chimera duplicates once you perfect this technique!

Read Nancy's Chimera Article

Soil Additives

2010-08-18T08:00:00.002-06:00

WHAT CAN BE ADDED TO YOUR POTTING MIX?

The standard potting mix is a 1:1:1 ratio of perlite, vermiculite, and peat. However, that is not the only way a potting mix can be made. Because climates, prices, and preferences vary from person or person, it may be beneficial to "tamper" with the standard recipe to suit your own needs. Keep in mind that African Violets like moist, but not water-logged, potting medium and a light medium such that roots can easily grow throughout.

Below is a list of ingredients that Violet Voice growers have used for a potting medium.

Alfalfa Meal - fertilizer

Bark - Aeration; some water-holding capacity. Decomposition may remove nitrogen

Bat Guano - fertilizer

Blood Meal - Organic source of nitrogen

Bone Meal - Organic source of phosphorus, calcium and a little nitrogen; makes soil less acidic

Calcined Clay - moisture retention, drainage, aeration and promote root penetration in heavy clay soils

Charcoal - "sweetness"/freshness of soil

Coir - moisture retention; does not break down

Compost - water retention, anchoring, and nutrients. Quality can vary greatly depending on source. May contain beneficial soil bacteria, as well as harmful ones

Cottonseed Meal - Organic source of nitrogen, lesser amounts of phosphate and potash; acidifies soil and stimulates beneficial bacteria

Decomposed Granite - aeration

Dehydrated Cow Manure - fertilizer

Dolomite Lime - Provides calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate, elemental calcium and magnesium; corrects overly acid soil. Not useful if hard water is used.

Egg Shells - nutrients, esp. calcium

Fish Emulsion - fertilizer

Granite Chicken Grit - aeration

Green Sand - AKA the mineral glauconite, source of potash, iron and other minerals (phosphate, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, boron, manganese and zinc).

Kelp - fertilizer

Marathon - systemic insecticide ( Imidacloprid )

Peat Moss - add some wieght to soil when wet; holds water; difficult to re-wet when dry

Perlite - for aeration; does not absorb water; According to Rob's Violet Barn, up to 50% perlite can be used when wicking

ProMix - Commercial soiless potting medium containing mostly peat and perlite

Pumice - aeration

Sand - weight; does not absorb water but holds it between grains; formerly used often to start leaves

Styrofoam - for aeration; does not absorb water

SuperPhosphate - Provides phosphate, good for roots, stems, blooms and fruit.

Vermiculite - increases aeration; absorbs some water

Vinegar - mainly added to water; makes more acidic/corrects alkaline pH

Worm Castings - fertilizer

The above information was distilled from the thread: Ask Dr. FHill ... Potting Medium and Wettness on the MSN Violet Voice.
Compiled by Rebecca.

Soil Recipes

2010-08-18T07:55:00.002-06:00

SOIL RECIPE FOR AFRICAN VIOLETS

by Nancy Robitaille

Most often when you buy soil that has "African Violet" written on it, it is not really the best soil for your plants. This soil uses mostly peat moss which can cause your plants to become rotted very quickly.

Most growers prefer to mix their own soil which is actually a soil-less mix. The formula for this is:
One part peat moss - provides the soil with texture and water holding capacity.
One part vermiculite - a mineral called mica that is heated and puffed up to form lightweight, sponge-like granules.
One part perlite - a volcanic mineral expanded by heating to form very lightweight, porous white granules.
You can use an empty can or plastic container to measure. Some use additives such as charcoal but this is not absolutely necessary.

If you already have purchased soil with "African violet" on it, use that as your peat, then add the same quantities of vermiculite and perlite.

Peat must be watered before use or it will dry out very quickly. Perlite allows air to pass through the mixture and vermiculite holds the water for a time but also allows air to pass through the soil-less mix.

Many growers pasteurize the peat before mixing in order to kill soil-borne pests. Add water until the peat is damp then put into an oven at 180 degrees F. for one hour. The time should actually be counted from when the internal temperature of the peat reaches 180 degrees F. (This causes a very strong odor, so do this when no one else is at home or you may hear some objections!)

No-Names

2010-08-18T07:49:00.001-06:00

SHOULD WE TRY TO FIND NAMES FOR OUR NO NAME PLANTS?

by Nancy Robitaille

Trading plants can be enjoyable but what happens when the plant you receive is NOT true to description?

I bought a gorgeous bi-color plant that looked so pretty it just had to come home with me. I forgot I had bought it at one of our hardware stores and several months later I was admiring it's bloom and forgetting it was a No Name, discovered there was no name tag on it.

That was maddening so I started looking at plants of that color to try to discover its' name thinking it would make a great show plant.

Well I found its name on First Class 2 (a computer program of African violet cultivar names) and put it on the pot. Then just recently I noticed two plants in bloom that looked very similar. On closer inspection I found a great bit of difference.

The real plant is MELODIE KIMI. Her description included the fact that it is single while this NO NAME plant had quite a few semi-doubles. Then I looked closely at the color. One was a purpleish hue and the other leaned toward fuschia, yet apart they looked very similar.

That was not all. The plant from the hardware store had light to medium green foliage while MELODIE KIMI had a darker medium green.

The point is, it would have been so easy to accept this plant as another MELODIE KIMI going by the picture on FC2 had I not already had the plant to compare it with. Yes, the NO NAME plant looked enough like the picture on FC2 for me to prepare it for show. When compared to a real plant of MELODIE KIMI in my collection and inspecting it in natural light, it proved not to be the same.

Be very careful when comparing your NO NAME plants with pictures. It may or may not be the same plant and trading of leaves with a plant you have named could cause problems down the line.

Symmetry In Your Plants

2010-08-18T07:48:00.002-06:00

SYMMETRY IN YOUR PLANTS

Nancy Robitaille

It is not difficult to get symmetry in each of your plants. Look in the center and see three small leaves. Sometimes one or two leaves may be very tiny.

Now look in the second row of leaves and picture three more leaves.

The third row of leaves completes three triangles which magically all together make a circle.

Continue with the symmetry counting the three leaves. Remove surplus or baby leaves which will mess up your symmetry. One reason to keep excess leaves is when the plant is weak and needs the extra leaves for making food for the plant.

An easy way to see the three leaves in each row is to use small pieces of paper to cover other surrounding leaves so you can see the triangle better.
If you begin early enough, that is, when the plant is just a plantlet, the plant will continue making its triangle of leaves for each row it produces.

Diagram courtesy of Pauline Bartholomew's " Growing to Show"

Wicking 101

2010-08-17T22:40:00.001-06:00

WICKING 101

by Nancy Robitaille

There are many methods growers use for watering their plants. One of those which saves lots of time is the wicking method.

First you need a container. That's easy enough. Search though your refrigerator. You can use margarine containers, pickle bottles, or refrigerator containers. I use all types of containers, mostly Glad refrigerator containers. The different heights of the pickle jars and other plastic containers give different heights to your plants so spacing is easier.

Once you have a few containers on hand, cut a small one-inch circle out of the lid. This serves to slip the wick through and to refill the container when necessary.

Wicks can be made of knitting thread, either acrylic or nylon. Cotton or other natural materials seem to rot much faster. The easiest and cheapest for me is cutting up old nylon stockings—pantyhose. Just cut off the toe of each leg, then cut half inch strips going across the leg of the pantyhose. This gives a nylon circle which can be cut and stretched to about 6-8 inches.

Wicks must be soaked in water before using or the capillary action will not begin. Take a wet wick, put it on the end of a wooden barbecue skewer and from the bottom, push up through the soil on the side of the pot. When the wick has reached the top, grasp it with two fingers while taking the skewer out with the other hand. Now the plant is ready to be set upon the container which holds water and fertilizer.

A second way to insert wicks is to thread the wick through an empty pot then place the plant in the pot. Arrange the top of the wick so that soil covers it; otherwise it could dry out.

Water in containers lasts about two weeks. Check occasionally to make sure the wick is damp and working as it should. Wipe green algae from pots when refilling.

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